Peru Safe Despite Protests in Amazon

We spent about ten days in Peru in June to enjoy a precious week of

family time together before the kids all dispersed to their jobs, sports challenges and schools. 

 

We couldn't have picked a more 

beautiful setting and our intention 

was to hike and climb mountains, and learn about the ancient Incan civilization and modern Peruvian culture by 

visiting the mountain city of Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu.

We did have the wonderful family time we were hoping for, and were able to do everything we wanted to, but it was touch and go for a while about whether we would be able to get to Machu Picchu on the edge of the Amazonian jungle.  

And in the city of Cusco especially, there was definitely an air of tension in the local squares and among the police force, which had a far greater presence than I was told is ordinarily the case.

The cause of tension and uncertainty we experienced was a terrible conflict going on between police and protesters in the remote regions of the Amazonian Jungle over the Peruvian government's push to open up Peru to foreign investment.  Demonstrations had been going on since April 2009 and they reached their peak during our visit in June.  In fact, every day that we were there, the clashes were getting more deadly and the news even made front page headlines back at home, causing our friends and family who knew we were in Peru to be concerned (unnecessarily) about our safety.  

The clashes resulted in a tragic loss of life to both police and protesters, but we were not close enough to where the violence occurred to be in danger.  Police were being kidnapped and executed. Protestors were shot and killed.   The fighting was due to foreign companies opening oil wells and mines in the rainforest.  Later, the state-run Petroperu halted its crude oil pipeline because of the protests.

The laws that were the object of the protests, were decreed by Peruvian President Alan Garcia under special powers Congress gave him to implement a free-trade pact with the US.  The laws were meant to outline a plan for regulating investment in the Amazon to encourage energy and mining companies to invest billions of dollars developing projects in the rain forest.  One law, dubbed the "Law of the Jungle", would ease restrictions on logging in the Amazon and free up some 111 million acres (45 million hectares), or roughly 60% of Peru's jungles, for potential development.  The second law would allow companies with concessions to get changes in zoning permits directly from Peru's central government, potentially giving them a way to extract resources without having to win the approval of local communities.

Thousands of indigenous Amazonian people, worried that these two laws would cause them to lose control over natural resources, blocked roads and waterways to force the government to revoke the laws and revise concessions granted to foreign energy companies. Who knows how the violence erupted or who took the first action, but indigenous leaders accused police of shooting at hundreds of protesters from helicopters to end the road block, and police said protesters fired first.  The indigenous people denied having guns and said they carried only their traditional spears. 

Regardless of who started the violence, at least 60 people on both sides of the conflict lost their lives.  It was a terrible tragedy and we could feel people's concern everywhere as well as greater security and armed guards.  We were also told that we wouldn't know if our travel around the country would be possible, especially to Machu Picchu.  For both security reasons, it was possible that the train to Agua Caliente might not run.  Even the Inca Trail might be closed, as it has been in the past when there were political situations or protests.  This was the land of the Shining Path not too long ago, and we were reminded of that as we watched the police on every street corner.

In the end, we were able to go to Machu Picchu and there, as everywhere in Peru, we had a wonderful time.  The local Peruvians we met were as warm and kind as people we've met on our travels anywhere in the world.  We enjoyed gracious hospitality and excellent service.  Since we got home, we learned that the government temporarily suspended the two laws.  I hope that cooler heads will prevail and that the conflict will be resolved without any more loss of life.  

We visited the home of local musicians in Ollantaytambo, Peru for a demonstration of ancient musical instruments. With the help of a Peruvian Museum of Archaeology & Anthropology, the musicians were able to reproduce thousands-year-old instruments and learn to play them. The video ends with a minute of two of Tim and Robby playing and singing.

Inca Bridge - Dramatic Hike

Here we are at the end of the path, literally and figuratively, at Machu Picchu, the last adventure part of our Peruvian trip.  

There is a narrow path over a 2,000 foot drop that goes along the rock face of a wall to the Inca Bridge.  

This is the place where the inhabitants of Machu Picchu fled when the invaders arrived.  The inhabitants set fire to Machu Picchu, broke their pottery into shards, grabbed the gold they could carry, and rushed over this ledge.  When they passed the Inca Bridge, they destroyed the bridge behind them so they could escape.

Now, you can walk to where Rand and I are holding the sign, near the wooden bridge section you see in the photo, which is impassable.  From here, we went back down to explore the town of Machu Picchu.

Robby and Ellen take in the Peruvian Sun

The sun is intense at these elevations and being so close to the equator.  Robby at least wears sunblock.  I cover up.  But it's all good!

Family fun in Peru's Sacred Valley

This trip was a very special one because it was the last one we could take as a family before Zack started his first job out of college and began his career where for a very long time I'm sure work will fill most of his time and he will not have much control over his schedule or free time.

I'm happy to say that the family time was wonderful and that the boys even remembered their Grandma, who couldn't be with us, when we were at the top of Wainu Picchu above Machu Picchu.

Visiting a Local School

Today, we visited a local school that our trip helps support.  Our touring company, called Backroads, has supported this school, buying desks, uniforms, books and other supplies, a stove so the kids can have hot lunches, and other necessities that are needed over the years.  

We sang to the kids and the kids sang to us in the fourth grade

 class and then we visited a first grade class too.

High Mountain Town of Weavers

Today, we went high into the mountains to a very small town that subsists by the men being porters on the Inca Trail and the women weaving and taking care of the families. The entire village seemed to come out to greet us and we had the great fortune to be able to visit with one family who was close to our Peruvian guide, Aurelio.

The family also raises Guinea Pigs and eats them about twice a month as an important source of protein.

The girls learn to weave at very young ages.

The photo on the right shows a mother carrying her young daughter. Babies are carried in sack-like shawls on the mother's back. When the babies grow older, they are carried as this mother is doing.

The babies are swirled around if they need to be nursed or comforted, and then swirled around to the back again so the mother can work. Women will spin yarn as they talk and even as they walk.

Cusco Market

Today, we spent time together in the Cusco market.  All except Zack who caught the dreaded stomach upset from something he might have touched, eaten or drank and had to spend the day in the hotel - we use Purel a zillion time a day.  

At the market, you would think you would catch something just walking through and handling the wares.  It's not exactly sanitary. 

 But it's a thrill  to the senses and lots of fun.

Everything from foods of all kinds 

to soft goods like textiles and clothing and even musical instruments

 are sold there.  

Incan Crop Circles

The Incas were brilliant farmers.  Despite the high altitude and harsh conditions, they managed to grow enough crops to feed a population of over 17 million.  The Moray crop circles shown above were an experiment in farming. By using these circles going deep into the earth, at the various levels going down, the Incas were able to grow crops that would normally need warmer climates.  Rand noticed that the crop circles were built in natural sink holes and noted that there are deep earth thermals that add extra warmth to these crop circles.  The Incans also imported better soil from far away to use for their farming.  It helps to get things done when you have the power of the masses to help out.

Fields of Barley

Golden fields of barley with snow-capped Andes behind.  Beer is a big seller in Peru and it is heavily taxed, bringing in needed revenues to the communities.  You see a lot of Barley growing

Cusco - Museum of Pre-Columbian Art

Incan Stonework - so impressive!

Don't these stones look like the fake stone at Disneyworld? Well, they are real, and were built by the Incas, entirely by hand-labor, thousands of years ago.

The Incas built as well, or better than, other illustrious civilizations like the ancient Egyptians or the Mayans.  The Incas used all manpower, too, because the only pack animals they had (until the Spanish invaded and brought horses, etc) were llamas and alpacas, which are not strong enough to pull massive stones through the jungle.  Instead, thousands of native Incas did the task, pulling the tremendous stones on logs or stone rollers from the quarries into Cusco.

Rand would have made a magnificent Incan - he is so strong!  Here he is in the Temple of the Moon, a piece of impressive Incan architecture and construction.

Peru is in an earthquake zone and the Incas knew how to construct massive edifices that would withstand big earthquakes.  The stones are masterfully cut to fit together in a perfect, tight interlocking weave. Each stone is pillowed. They are a masterpiece to behold

Cusco Peru - Shaman Lucas

This morning, we had our trip blessed by a famous Peruvian Shaman named Lucas. Lucas made a package of many different symbolic substances that we will bury in Mother Earth in a ceremony tomorrow.  Rand and I heard that Lucas was especially well known for his coca leaf readings, and that people journeyed from far away to seek a reading.  After the group blessing, we asked Lucas if he would give us each a coca leaf reading and he obliged.  Zack came with us to translate and then Tim and Robby were curious enough to join us. Eventually, Lucas read everyone's coca leaves!  The good news is that we all have wonderful futures ahead of us.

Cusco, Peru -

Cusco, Peru - Night Life

Some snapshots of our fun first evening in Cusco - we started by going to Norton's Pub, a bar that had a balcony over Plaza de Arme.  We sat on the narrow balcony having a drink and watching the people and the festivities going on below us.  We had a great time!

After the sun went down,

 we went inside and played darts for a while.  Rand is a dart master and Ellen is happy just to hit the board